If you’re on Maui for more than a handful of days, you might want to get out and see the countryside a bit. Landlubbers like us can only handle so many hours drinking original mai tais in the hot sun before we start to melt into tropical oblivion. An “Upcountry” day offers the opportunity to enjoy cooler temps, let the sunburn marinate, and explore some of the more unique aspects of modern-day Maui.
Here’s one possible itinerary that takes you in a roughly clockwise loop through Haiku, Makawao, Haleakala, and Kula…
8:00AM: Hookipa Beach Park to watch the surfers (15 mins)
→ Drive time from Wailea: 35 mins
→ Drive time from Ka’anapali: 55 mins
A lot of visitors to Maui simply skip the more wild and untamed North Shore in favor of calmer waters in South and West Maui. That’s a shame because there are world-class surf spots here and they’re usually teeming with world-class surfers. Drive-in access to the Ho’okipa Beach parking lot is easy and the vantage point from the cliffs gives you a bird’s-eye view of the action below. There are a few goat trails down to the water, but the footing is a bit dicey, especially if it’s raining or misting.
Drive time to next stop: 15 mins →
8:30AM: Baked on Maui for the Shakshouka breakfast (45 mins)
While the kids always go for the Fully Loaded Waffle, my tastes are a bit more savory. Fortunately, Baked on Maui is way more than a coffee shop with excellent pastries – it’s a full-blown cafe with perhaps the most original menu on Maui. Their “skillet” breakfasts run the gamut from Mexicali to Keawe Loco and you can get eggs just about every possible way. Personally, I’m partial to the Shakshouka. It has just the right amount of heat and isn’t too heavy like the some traditional restaurant omelets. Specialty coffees and teas are of course available, and you can have it all without the massive lines you’ll often find at well-known tourist favorites like Kihei Caffe.
Drive time to next stop: 15 mins →
9:45AM: Komoda Store & Bakery for a guava malasada (10 mins)
3674 Baldwin Ave, Makawao (Closed Sun and Wed)
This family-owned bakery and general store is a Maui institution and is famous across Hawaii for its donuts on a stick and exquisite cream puffs. Komoda’s has existed in some form or another in Makawao since 1918 and today’s iteration still feels a bit like stepping into the 1960s. The whole experience feels a bit like ordering soup in a Seinfeld episode, so just remember that you’re not here for the ambiance or the service. Just smile and get your donuts! I think the guava malasada is the best, but try them all and make up your own mind.
Easy walk to next stop →
10AM: Baldwin Ave in Makawao for galleries & shops (1 hour)
Who knew a small historic rodeo town could support so many fancy clothing shops, art galleries, and real estate brokers? There’s a glass blowing studio, a local market, a fine Italian restaurant, and the Maui Cookie Lady too. Take a slow stroll down Baldwin Ave to soak it all in and then walk back up the other side for the full experience. We’ve allocated a full hour in the itinerary, so there’s plenty of time to pick up souvenirs, try on some island-couture, or drop a few thousand bucks on original artwork.
Drive time to next stop: 1 hour →
12PM: Haleakala Summit for a not-so-crowded hike (1.5 hours)
While sunrise (reservations required) and sunset (brrrrrr!) are the most popular times to visit the summit of Haleakala, the middle of the day often delivers warmer temps and fewer crowds. The drive is long and winding, so we always aim to get out and stretch our legs on a decent hike. While you can walk around the summit a bit, the only real trail from the top is Sliding Sands, which winds its way down into the crater. Other great hiking options in Haleakala National Park include Halemau’u Trail and Supply Trail, both of which are accessed from parking areas on the access road. These hikes feature a mix of spectacular cinder cones views, strange alien-looking plants, and the occasional nene. Be prepared for just about any kind of weather: sun, sleet, mist, rain, hot, cold, and everything in between.
Drive time to next stop: 1 hour →
2:30PM: Kula food trucks for a late locals lunch (30 mins)
Mainlanders know it as CVS, but in Hawaii it’s still Longs Drugs. And in the parking lot of the Kula outpost, is one of our favorite food truck spots on Maui. Stewz Burgers and Thai Mee Up are the standout offerings at this local spot, but you really can’t go wrong with any of the trucks. The wood-fired pizzas can take a while but are well worth the wait. Palm-shaded picnic tables offer some respite from the sunshine while marauding roosters peck at scraps left in the gravel. This is the Upcountry lunch scene you’ve been looking for!
Easy walk to next stop →
3PM: Mahalo Aleworks for a pint at Maui’s #1 brewery (30 mins)
Wrap up lunch and wander across Kupaoa St to Mahalo Aleworks, which usually takes first place in our rankings of the best breweries on Maui. With a full line-up of original and creative brews on tap, there’s something here for every taste and preference. Order at the bar and head to the lofty upper level for spectacular down-mountain views of Maui and the Pacific Ocean. Contemplate your final Upcountry activity while you sip back all the calories you just burned hiking around in the volcano. Do you want to smell lavender or goats?
Drive time to Lavender Farm: 15 mins →
Drive time to Surfing Goat Dairy: 15 mins →
4PM (A): Ali’i Kula Lavender Farm to wander and waft (1 hour)
This is a tried and true Upcountry tourist destination with a cute souvenir and coffee shop, cool breezes, dramatic views, and beautiful grounds to explore. There are actually not as many lavender plants as you might expect, but there are plenty of rustic walkways, water features, and other exotic tropical plants to keep you entertained for at least an hour. When it’s time to head back down the hill, grab a lavender-infused pastry and a hot scented beverage for the road.
Drive time back to Wailea: 50 mins →
Drive time back to Ka’anapali: 1 hour 5 mins →
4PM (B): Surfing Goat Dairy to pet a goat and eat cheese (1 hour)
This is a hands-on farm experience that works on a few different levels. Kids love roaming around and getting up close with the goofy goats. Adults enjoy hearing the story of how the farm operates and sampling the many cheeses made on-site. You may need a bit more than an hour depending on when you arrive and when the next tour is available, so do mind the 5pm closing time. When you’re done, continue downhill on Omaopio Road to take the scenic route back to your Wailea vacation rental condo.
Drive time back to Wailea: 35 mins →
Drive time back to Ka’anapali: 50 mins →
Above the Clouds
Embarking on an Upcountry Maui adventure means trading swaying palms for rolling hills, salty breezes for cooler mountain air, and sun-soaked beaches for lavender fields and barnyard charm. It’s where paniolo history and sky-high views reveal another Maui you didn’t even know existed.